In Search of Desert Wildflowers and Bighorn Sheep on the South Lykken Trail

Spring is a great time to explore the Santa Rosa and San Jacinto National Monument trails in Palm Springs. The earlier rains and higher temperatures means wildflowers will be bloom and bighorn sheep will feast on the abundant plant life. One of the best spots to see enjoy both of these desert gems is along the South Lykken Trail in Palm Springs.

Hike Distance: 6.26 miles

Elevation Gain:  987 ft elevation gain.

TrailsNH Hiking Difficulty Calculator: 111- Moderately Strenuous

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The North and South Lykken Trails, named after Carl Lykken, an early pioneer who served as the first postmaster of Palm Springs, are some of the most well-liked trails in the Coachella Valley. During our hike in March, we saw the snow-covered summits of the San Jacinto Mountains as the trail climbed up the foothills.

Right from the start, the trail provides a cardio workout with a series of switchbacks gaining more than 650 feet in elevation in just over a mile

Flowering brittlebush and creosote blanketed the trail.

Brittlebush (Encelia farinosa) is a widespread, drought-resistant shrub with bright yellow flowers and is one of the most conspicuous desert plants when in bloom from late winter to mid-spring. Typically, it thrives in dry, gravelly slopes, open sandy washes, and south-facing granitic slopes at elevations of up to 3,300 feet above sea level.

This medium sized rounded shrub has long, oval leaves covered with soft 'hairs' act as a natural sunscreen against the sun's intense rays. The pale green leaves in early spring turn velvety-white in the summer. In fact, the hotter and drier the growing season, the smaller and whiter are the leaves. In times of extended drought, the brittlebush will shed all its leaves and refrain from blooming to preserve water and ensure survival.

Bright yellow daisy-like flowers bloom in loosely branched clusters, carried on long stalks well above the leafy stems. These flowers are rich in nectar and attract bees and butterflies.

The Cahuilla considered Brittlebush to be a medicinal plant. When in full bloom, the stems release a resinous gum. The Cahuilla used to gather and warm this resin to create a salve that they would put on the chest for pain relief. In addition, branches, blossoms and leaves were cooked down to an ash in order to produce a gummy glue that could be applied to a loose tooth or help relief tooth ache pain.

We spotted several smaller but no less impressive wildflowers along the trail, including the Arizona Lupine,

Sand Blazing Star,

and Emory Rock Daisy.

Although this hike was all about flora and fauna it was hard to ignore these panoramic views of Palm Springs.

Walking along the ridge 700 feet above the valley floor, we began to see evidence of bighorn sheep activity.

Peninsular bighorn sheep are experts at using their horns for defense, offense, and even busting open cacti. It is probable that they broke this cactus with their horns and consumed the juicy pulp, which is rich in water. It is important to note that although barrel cacti hold water, the water contains oxalic acid, which may lead to diarrhea if consumed on an empty stomach.

Less than 2 miles into the hike we came across a dozen or more peninsular bighorn sheep grazing on the hills above the trail. Both us and the other hikers maintained distance and refrained from approaching the rams. The pictures were captured using a zoom lens.

These magnificent Peninsular desert bighorn sheep are a distinct population segment of the desert bighorn sheep subspecies. They roam the San Jacinto and Santa Rosa Mountains and areas as far south as the United States-Mexico border. In the early 1900s, their population was estimated at 28,000 individuals. However, human disturbance, loss of habitat, fragmentation by rapid urban and commercial develop all contributed to the dramatic decline in their numbers. The estimated herd size dropped from roughly 1000 animals in 1971 to approximately 300 in 1991. Although protected since 1971 by California legislation, it wasn't until 1998 that the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service listed this population segment as an endangered species. Following this designation, the Endangered Species Act ensured that the Peninsular desert bighorn sheep will be protected and all efforts made to assist in its recovery.

Recovery efforts have shown some success. The last population study completed in 2016 estimated the herd size at approximately 900 individuals. Nevertheless, despite this growth, these animals remain extremely vulnerable and continued efforts are needed to insure their survival.

These majestic bighorn sheep are named for the large, curved horns on the males, or rams, while females have shorter, less curved horns. Adult bighorn sheep stand between 30-39 inches tall at the shoulders, with rams weighing around 160 pounds on average and ewes weighing about 105 pounds. Their coat can range from light sandy to brown or slate, with white markings on the rump, stomach, muzzle, and back of the legs.

Although bighorn sheep live in social groups, rams and ewes typically only come together for mating. Rams form bachelor groups, as shown in this photo while ewes reside in herds with younger lambs. These sheep are seasonal breeders, with females usually giving birth to one lamb annually. The mating season, known as the rut, takes place from July to December.

Yes rams do ram! In the mating season, rams vie for the chance to breed with ewes, often engaging in impressive head-butting contests that can extend for over 24 hours. Bighorn sheep have evolved to cope with this mating behavior, possessing double-layered skulls and massive tendons in their neck and shoulders to absorb and withstand these impacts. Notice the damage to this ram's horns. The horns, which can weigh upwards of 30 pounds, reflect its age, health, and past combat experiences - they provide insights into the ram's history.

Typically, bighorn sheep inhabit steep, rugged mountainous terrain. In the Santa Rosa and San Jacinto Mountains National Monument desert bighorn sheep can also be found in canyon bottoms, alluvial fans, and sandy washes in search of water and forage. These creature can not outrun their predators instead they rely on their climbing abilities to escape enemies. This predator evasion behavior of bighorn sheep is also dependent on the ability to visually detect danger at a distance. Consequently, bighorn sheep tend to choose habitats with good visibility while steering clear of densely vegetated areas.

Despite recent increases in population size, the Peninsular desert bighorn sheep population remains extremely vulnerable to demographic and environmental conditions, habitat loss and fragmentation, disease, predation, and human disturbance. However, ongoing conservation efforts might lead to their reclassification from 'endangered' to 'threatened' in the near future according to the California Department of Fish and Wildlife. What a treat to experience these wonderful creature in their natural habitat..

If you've read any of our blogs, you'll know that finding the perfect lunch spot is an important part of any hike. This rock outcropping on the ridge was just the spot.

After lunch we spotted these Desert Poppies

with a closeup of the bloom,

Canterbury Bells,

Chicory,

Phacelia,

and Bearded Cryptantha.

We captured this Beavertail cactus in full bloom. The vibrant colors of the flowers make them easily noticeable against the backdrop of tan and brown rocks.

Looks like an insect is heading in for a pollen feast. Look closely and you can see the interior of the flower is covered in pollen

California barrel cactus in bloom.

Heading back to the trailhead after a great day of wildflowers and bighorn sheep.

Another perfect hike in Palm Springs.