The Art Smith Trail: One of the Best Places to See Peninsular Bighorn Sheep
- Jan 23, 2025
- 12 min read
Updated: Jul 19
Hike Details
Location: Foothills of the Santa Rosa Mountains
Trail Type: Out and Back
Distance: 8.2 miles (3rd oasis)
Elevation Gain: 1350 feet
Difficulty: Moderately Strenuous
Terrain/Obstacles: Steep switchbacks, eroded and uneven footing
Hike Breakdown: Hike challenging for an unconditioned hiker
Best Time: October - May
Highlights: Peninsular bighorn sheep, multiple desert fan palm oases, sweeping views of the neighboring mountains and valley cities
Special Note:
Hike to the first oasis: 4.24 miles; Difficulty: Moderate - Score 83
Hike to the second oasis: 5.7 miles; Difficulty: Moderately Strenuous - Score 113
Hike to the third oasis: 8.2 miles; Difficulty: Moderately Strenuous - Score 149
Click here to navigate to the TrailsNH website for a description of the hiking difficulty calculator.
Why Hike the Art Smith Trail?
The Art Smith Trail is one of the flagship hikes in the Santa Rosa and San Jacinto Mountains National Monument, offering a spectacular introduction to the Colorado Desert. Winding through rugged granitic foothills at the base of the Santa Rosa Mountains, the trail rewards hikers with sweeping valley views, fascinating desert geology, and one of the best opportunities to see Peninsular bighorn sheep in their natural habitat.
Along the way, you'll discover a remarkable diversity of desert plants, explore a landscape sculpted by millions of years of erosion, and experience the quiet solitude of the desert. Whether you're hoping to photograph bighorn sheep, learn about the region's geology, or simply enjoy one of the monument's premier hikes, the Art Smith Trail showcases the wild beauty of the Coachella Valley.
Let's Start Hiking
Several parking areas along Highway 74 in Palm Desert provide access to the Art Smith Trail. Regardless of where you park, the hike begins with a short walk through Dead Indian Canyon Wash.
A desert wash is a natural drainage channel that is dry most of the year but can become a rushing stream during winter storms or summer monsoons. These intermittent waterways transport sand, gravel, and boulders from the surrounding mountains, continually reshaping the desert landscape. During prolonged dry periods, washes appear barren, but following a wet winter or active monsoon season, they often burst to life with grasses, wildflowers, and fresh green vegetation. We visited after a particularly wet winter, and the wash was carpeted with lush groundcover.
However, most years, it's in a state of moderate drought, which typically characterizes this part of the Colorado Desert.
This metal sign clearly marks the trailhead.
The trail immediately begins climbing a series of switchbacks carved into the rocky hillside. Although the initial 500-600 feet of elevation gain is the most strenuous part of the hike, most hikers will find it manageable with a steady pace. Just be sure to bring plenty of water and hydrate often, especially during the warmer months.
Once you reach the top of the switchbacks, the trail levels off and rewards you with sweeping views of the surrounding mountains and the communities scattered across the Coachella Valley.
The foothills of the Santa Rosa Mountains are dominated by desert scrub, the signature plant community of the Colorado Desert. Cacti, succulents, creosote bush, and other low-growing shrubs are spaced widely apart, leaving large areas of bare ground between them. Every plant is adapted to survive intense sunlight, scorching summer temperatures, poor soils, and months with little or no rainfall. Although the landscape may appear sparse, it is home to an extraordinary variety of plants and animals that have evolved to thrive under some of the harshest conditions in North America.
Despite more than a year of below-average rainfall, this Gander cholla (Cylindropuntia ganderi) was thriving. Unlike many other cholla species, the Gander cholla has a relatively limited range, occurring primarily in the Colorado Desert of California and adjacent Arizona and Baja California.
The name 'cholla' refers to a group of shrubby cacti with cylindrical, segmented stems that serve as natural water reservoirs. These modified branches store moisture after rainfall and sustain the plant through extended dry periods. The stems are lined with raised, wart-like structures called tubercles, from which sharp spines emerge. The spines deter hungry herbivores, shade the stems, and create a thin layer of cooler, more humid air that reduces water loss.
A broad, shallow root system completes the cactus's survival strategy by rapidly absorbing moisture from even the lightest desert showers before it can evaporate. Together, these adaptations allow chollas to thrive in the Colorado Desert.
Mojave yuccas are also common along the trail; their sword-like leaves stand high above the surrounding shrubs. Like many desert plants, they are well adapted to survive prolonged drought and extreme temperatures.
The rocky hillsides supporting these yuccas may look familiar to anyone who has hiked Joshua Tree National Park. Although separated by many miles, both landscapes are underlain by ancient granitic rocks that crystallized deep beneath the Earth's surface more than 80 million years ago as part of the Peninsular Ranges Batholith. That shared geologic origin explains why rugged granite outcrops, rounded boulders, and impressive rock piles characterize both regions.
Reading the Rocks
The granite beneath your feet wasn't always a collection of individual boulders. As it cooled deep underground, it developed a network of natural fractures called joints. After the rock was uplifted and exposed, water entered these joints while chemical weathering and temperature changes slowly rounded the granite.
Over millions of years, wind and flash floods carried away the decomposed rock, leaving the most resistant rocks standing above the landscape in a process known as erosional isolation. Today, those rounded boulder piles tell the story of millions of years of weathering and erosion. Notice the dark brown to black coating covering many of the exposed rocks.
This is desert varnish, an extremely thin layer rich in manganese and iron oxides that accumulates very slowly on stable rock surfaces. Although scientists still don't fully understand exactly how it forms, a coating thinner than a human hair can take hundreds to thousands of years to develop. Its presence tells us these boulders have remained exposed and largely undisturbed for a very long time.
As we continued deeper into the granitic foothills, the views became increasingly dramatic. Rounded rock piles stretched across the landscape in every direction, while in the distance Highway 74 could be seen winding through the Santa Rosa Mountains.
Among the scattered boulders, another iconic desert plant began appearing with increasing frequency: the desert agave. Growing directly from cracks in the granite and rocky slopes, these striking succulents are as well adapted to this harsh landscape as the chollas and yuccas.
Here is a close-up of the blue-green leaves and the sharp spines that line the edges of each leaf.
Every agave eventually reaches a remarkable milestone when it sends up a towering flower stalk that can grow 15 to 25 feet tall in just a few weeks. This spectacular bloom marks the plant's final act of reproduction.
Agaves are monocarpic, meaning they flower only once during their lifetime. After producing thousands of nectar-rich flowers that attract bees, hummingbirds, and other pollinators, the parent plant gradually dies. In this photo, the brown rosette at the base supported the now-dried flower stalk, while the healthy green rosette beside it is another agave waiting decades for its own spectacular bloom.
As we continued hiking, splashes of color appeared in the foothills. Desert lavender releases its distinctive sweet aroma with even the lightest touch, while creosote bushes dominate the landscape. Although often overlooked, creosote is one of the defining shrubs of the Colorado Desert and among the longest-living plants on Earth. Together, these hardy shrubs help create the character of this remarkable desert ecosystem.
The Trail's Most Famous Residents
One of the biggest draws of the Art Smith Trail is the opportunity to see endangered Peninsular bighorn sheep in their natural habitat. Although sightings are never guaranteed, this trail offers some of the best chances in the Coachella Valley. The photos below capture several of our encounters with the sheep that roam the northern slopes of the Santa Rosa Mountains.
As with all wildlife, success often comes down to being in the right place at the right time. We've had the best luck hiking early in the morning, when bighorn sheep are most active and often forage along the trail. Fortunately, they don't spend much time hiding in dense vegetation. In fact, we've encountered them right on the trail on several occasions and almost always before the first fan palm oasis.
Most of these photographs were taken with a telephoto lens so we could capture close-up images while maintaining a respectful distance. Giving wildlife plenty of space reduces stress and allows them to continue their normal behavior. Rather than approaching them, wait patiently until they move away on their own before continuing to hike.
The Peninsular bighorn sheep are a distinct population of desert bighorn sheep found only in the Peninsular Ranges of Southern California and northern Baja California. As shown in the California Department of Fish and Wildlife map below, they occupy a relatively narrow band of rugged mountain habitat extending from the San Jacinto and Santa Rosa Mountains south to the United States–Mexico border (highlighted in pink).
A Species on the Brink
Living within such a limited range has made the Peninsular bighorn sheep especially vulnerable to human activity. During the twentieth century, habitat fragmentation from expanding urban development, disease, predation, and other human-related pressures caused the population to decline dramatically. By the mid-1990s, fewer than 300 sheep remained in California, leading to their listing as a federally endangered species.
A Fragile Recovery
Decades of habitat protection, research, and active management have helped the population recover to approximately 750 animals as of 2025. While this represents a remarkable conservation success, the sheep remain vulnerable.
Their recovery is encouraging, but the future of this iconic desert species still depends on continued conservation efforts.
Rams and Ewes
The easiest way to distinguish rams (left) from ewes (right) is by looking at their horns. Mature rams carry massive, tightly curled horns that continue growing throughout their lives, while ewes have much smaller, gently curved horns. Rams also have a heavier, more muscular build, averaging about 160 pounds, whereas ewes typically weigh around 105 pounds. Both sexes share the same desert camouflage, with coats ranging from sandy brown to slate gray and contrasting white markings on the rump, belly, muzzle, and backs of the legs.
Nursery Bands
One of the highlights of our hikes has been encountering nursery bands of Peninsular bighorn sheep. These groups consist of ewes and their young lambs; adult rams spend most of the year in separate bachelor groups. Seeing nursery bands is relatively uncommon and provides a rare glimpse into one of the most important stages of the species' life cycle.
Peninsular bighorn sheep breed seasonally, with the rut occurring from July through December. After a gestation of about six months, ewes typically give birth to a single lamb in late winter or spring. During their first weeks of life, lambs rely on the steep, rugged terrain for protection while quickly developing the agility needed to navigate the rocky cliffs.
During their first year, lambs learn essential survival skills from their mothers, including the boundaries of their home range, dependable sources of food and water, and the safest escape routes through the steep, rocky terrain. As they mature, females usually remain with their mother's nursery band for life, while males leave between 2 and 4 years of age to join bachelor groups, where they spend most of the year.
Based on their fuzzy coats and the absence of visible horn buds, these lambs were likely only 1 to 2 months old. We had no idea at the time how unusual the encounter was. After I uploaded the observations to iNaturalist, curators from both the California Rare, Threatened and Endangered Species project and the U.S. Federally Threatened and Endangered Species project added the records to their collections, highlighting the value of documenting wildlife observations.
Notice that the horns are now visible on this older lamb. The first year of life is the most challenging for Peninsular bighorn sheep, and many lambs never reach adulthood.
Survival varies considerably from year to year, with roughly 30 percent of lambs dying before six months of age.
In the Northern Santa Rosa Mountains, disease, predation, injuries from falls, and vehicle collisions while crossing Highway 74 are among the leading causes of lamb mortality. Those that survive their first year are far more likely to reach adulthood.
Surviving the Desert
One of our most unusual wildlife observations on the Art Smith came when we watched a ram feeding on a California barrel cactus, a behavior we had previously only discussed during our guided hikes. During prolonged dry periods, barrel cacti become an important source of both moisture and nutrients. Using their powerful horns, bighorn sheep can break through the cactus's tough outer skin to reach the water-rich pulp inside. Their lips, tongue, and mouth are protected by thick, leathery tissue that allows them to feed among the sharp spines with surprisingly little injury.
Witnessing this behavior firsthand offered a fascinating reminder of how well adapted these sheep are to surviving in this harsh desert environment.
Throughout our many encounters with Peninsular bighorn sheep, we've found that patience and distance are the keys to memorable wildlife experiences. If sheep are on the trail, simply stop, give them plenty of room, and allow them to move on at their own pace. Respecting their space is one of the best ways we can help protect this endangered species.
With the bighorn sheep disappearing into the rocky hillsides, we continued our hike through the Santa Rosa foothills. Although wildlife is a major draw, the Art Smith Trail offers much more than unforgettable sheep encounters.
As we continued hiking, two more familiar Colorado Desert shrubs lined the trail: chuparosa and brittlebush. Although very different in appearance, both play important roles in the desert ecosystem. Chuparosa's brilliant red flowers provide a rich source of nectar for hummingbirds and native bees. Brittlebush, with its silvery foliage and bright yellow spring flowers, is another valuable food source for wildlife. One of the brittlebushes on the trail had recently been 'chewed over', possibly by a bighorn sheep.
Chuparosa also offers a treat for hikers. Its tubular flowers have a surprisingly refreshing cucumber-like flavor. If you decide to sample one, take only a single flower or two from a healthy shrub, leaving plenty behind for the hummingbirds and other pollinators that depend on them. As with any wild edible, choose flowers growing at about waist height or higher to avoid those that may have been sprayed by coyotes or other animals.
On the trail, we also discovered the smallest of flowers, a sticky fagonbush.
The Oasis Awaits
After miles of hiking through rocky foothills and desert scrub, the first desert fan palm oasis finally came into view. The scattered palms looked almost out of place against the surrounding brown hillsides. From a distance, the grove appeared to be struggling, but as we drew closer, an entirely different story began to emerge.
As we approached the oasis, the grove told a more complex story than first appeared. Several mature fan palms had died, yet young palms were thriving nearby, evidence that the oasis continues to renew itself. Despite growing in the desert, California fan palms are among its least drought-tolerant plants. Their roots reach only about 8 to 12 feet below the surface, so they depend on a constant supply of groundwater. If that water source declines or disappears, the palms eventually die.
The dead trunks standing within the grove are reminders that palm oases are constantly changing. Faults and fractures in the underlying bedrock act like an underground plumbing system, providing pathways for groundwater to rise toward the surface where the palms can reach it. However, earthquakes and gradual fault movement can alter these pathways over time. Springs may shift, groundwater levels may change, or the land itself may be uplifted, leaving some palms beyond the reach of the water they depend on. When that happens, mature palms gradually die, while new palms may establish where groundwater is still available.
The presence of healthy young palms growing beside the dead trunks suggests the oasis is continuing to regenerate. This pattern indicates the earlier die-off may have been caused by localized disturbance rather than the permanent loss of the groundwater supporting the grove.
The California fan palm (Washingtonia filifera) is the only palm native to the western United States and the country's largest native palm. Its persistent skirt of dead fronds is more than a distinctive feature. It provides shelter for countless desert animals while protecting the trunk from the intense desert sun. Standing beneath these towering palms, it's easy to appreciate that an oasis is far more than a collection of trees. It is a refuge where geology, groundwater, plants, and wildlife come together to create one of the desert's richest ecosystems.
After a morning of climbing through the rugged foothills, we found the perfect spot to relax, enjoy lunch, and soak in the spectacular views of the Santa Rosa Mountains.
Beyond the First Oasis
We continued along the trail to the second palm oasis, located only a short distance beyond the first. Even from a distance, the grove appeared noticeably healthier.
We decided not to leave the trail to explore this oasis, choosing instead to continue along the Art Smith. Judging by its healthy appearance, it's certainly an oasis worth returning to explore another day.
Although we had already hiked more than four miles, we decided to press on to the third palm oasis. The extra effort proved worthwhile, rewarding us with another secluded grove and a fitting finale to an unforgettable desert adventure.
Sometimes the best way to end a hike is to stop, look around, and appreciate the remarkable landscape you've just explored.
A leisurely walk back to the trail.
With the trailhead finally in sight, we descended the last switchbacks, reflecting on a day filled with remarkable geology, hidden palm oases, and unforgettable wildlife encounters.
Closing Thoughts
The Art Smith Trail is one of the finest hikes in the Coachella Valley, combining rugged desert scenery, fascinating geology, hidden palm oases, and some of the best opportunities to see endangered Peninsular bighorn sheep. Every mile reveals something new, making this much more than a destination hike. It is an opportunity to experience the remarkable diversity of the Colorado Desert and gain a deeper appreciation for the forces that continue to shape this extraordinary landscape.
Looking for More of a Challenge?
If you enjoyed the Art Smith Trail and are ready for a longer, more demanding adventure in the desert foothills, continue to Haystack Mountain. With greater elevation gain, expansive views of the Coachella Valley, and a rewarding summit, it's the perfect next step for hikers looking to build on the Art Smith experience.
Ready to Climb Higher?
Want to experience the Santa Rosa Mountains from a higher perspective? Asbestos Mountain offers a more strenuous climb into the range, with cooler elevations, sweeping vistas, and a completely different mountain environment than the lower desert trails.
Want to Discover More Desert Fan Palm Oases
Hidden springs, fault-controlled groundwater, and mountain-fed canyons create some of Southern California's most remarkable desert fan palm oases. Continue with our Complete Guide to California Desert Fan Palm Oases to explore their geology, ecology, wildlife, conservation, and the remarkable landscapes that make each oasis unique.
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