Exploring the Art Smith Trail: A Close Encounter with Bighorn Sheep

The Art Smith trail spans about 8.2 miles, extending from Palm Desert to the junction of Dunn Road and the Cathedral Canyon trailhead. This is one of the signature trails within the Santa Rosa and San Jacinto Mountains National Monument (SR&SJMNM), providing picturesque views of the Coachella Valley and Santa Rosa mountains. Along the Art Smith, it's simple to leave behind the urban sights and sounds. Although we've been hiking this trail since 2019, we never tire of it. It's only a 15-minute drive from our home, and it's a popular spot to see Bighorn Sheep.

There are multiple parking areas for the Art Smith trail situated along Highway 74 in Palm Desert. Regardless of where you park, the trailhead is accessed after a brief walk through Dead Indian Canyon wash. A wash is essentially a drainage pathway with in a canyon or other low-lying area that is typically dry but can carry significant water flow during and after heavy rainstorms. Conditions in the wash vary based on the summer monsoon and winter rainfall. It can appear lush with groundcover like in 2019 or….

in a more common intermediate state of drought.

This metal sign clearly marks the trailhead.

The trail immediately climbs steadily through a series of switchbacks carved into the rocky hillside. It’s a tough 500–600 foot climb that’s manageable for most people, just remember to hydrate and then hydrate some more.

Once you reach the top, the trail evens out, and you're treated to outstanding views of the surrounding mountains and valley communities.

The foothills of the Santa Rosa Mountains are predominantly covered by Desert Scrub plant communities.

Desert scrub areas are characterized by cacti, succulents, low-growing, drought-adapted shrubs, and grasses. They are tough survivors, who have adapted to intense sunlight, minimal rainfall, extreme temperatures and poor soils. Calling them resilient is an understatement. Desert scrub is characterized by less than 50% ground cover and significant patches of bare ground separating plants.

Despite a lack of rain over the last year, this gander cholla is thriving. ‘Chollas’ refers to different shrubby cacti with cylindrical stems made up of segmented joints. These stems are modified branches that have small, wart-like projections from which sharp spines—actually modified leaves—grow. The spiky surface serves multiple purposes. First, the spines act as a deterrent to herbivores, protecting the plant from being eaten. Additionally, the spines provide shade and help to reduce water loss by creating a microclimate around the plant, reducing the impact of harsh desert conditions.

The fleshy stems of the cholla serve as reservoirs, storing water when it’s available and releasing it during dry periods. In addition, they possess a broad and shallow root system that rapidly absorbs water from even light rains. These as well as other adaptations allow cholla cacti to survive in one of the hottest and driest desert in North America.

Desert scrub succulents include this Mojave Yucca. Yucca plants have several built-in mechanisms for conserving water in dry climates. Their leaves have a waxy coating to help prevent evaporation and water loss. The leaves are also shaped with built-in channels to help direct water to the base of the plant and collect moisture more efficiently. Additionally, as older leaves die they droop down and form a protective barrier around the trunk of the Yucca tree to help prevent sun exposure and conserve water.

Desert agaves are a group of succulent plants native to Southern California, Arizona, and Baja California. They’re known for their rosette growth form; thick, fleshy leaves; and their ability to store water, a key trait that accounts for its desert survival.

Here is a close up of the blue-green leaves and the sharp spine which line the edges of each leaves.

Agave flowering is a dramatic event where a mature agave plant produces a tall, central stalk from which a mass of flowers emerges. This flowering process is typically a sign that the plant is nearing the end of its life and is a final act of reproduction before the plant die. They are monocarpic, meaning they flower once (often spectacularly) and then die like this plant on the side of the trail.

The Santa Rosa Mountain foothills share geological similarities with Joshua Tree National Park, particularly in the presence of rock piles. Both areas are characterized by granite intrusions, tectonic activity, and subsequent erosion that has sculpted the landscape. The granite outcrops and rock piles have been shaped by a process called erosional isolation. Erosional isolation refers to the process by which individual rocks become separated from surrounding materials due to the removal of loose sediment and soil by erosion, leaving them standing out as distinct features.

Erosional isolation occurs because the granite bedrock in the foothillls has been fractured overtime through tectonic activity and weathering. Water, wind, and temperature changes break the granite into rounded boulders and loose sediment. Over thousands of years, wind and flash floods carry away the finer particles of sand and silt thus leaving the larger, heavier boulders behind. As more sediment is stripped away, these boulders become isolated often forming boulder piles or standing alone.

These rock placements may appear random but reflects areas where rock resisted erosion. In addition, the exposed rock surfaces in these piles develop desert varnish over time—a thin, dark coating of manganese and iron oxides that indicates long-term surface stability. The method by which the varnish forms is not completely understood. Less than the thickness of a human hair, the process can take 100s to 1000s of year to form. It means these rocks have not been disturbed or moved during the entire process. Varnish gives the foothills their characteristic darkened, polished look.

As you hike deeper into the foothills, the views behind and ahead of you become increasingly dramatic. In the background, Highway 74 is visible climbing into the higher elevations of the Santa Rosa Mountains.

Desert lavender is another common desert scrub plant. Dave and I consider desert lavender our favorite ‘hiking’ plant. Whenever we find a healthy plant along the trail, we pluck a small cluster of leaves and purple flowers, rub them between our fingers, and inhale the refreshing scent of the lavender oils.

The creosote bush is not just common; it is the dominant plant in the Desert Scrub habitat due to its remarkable adaptation to dry environments, enabling it to outcompete other vegetation. Its numerous adaptations include a deep and extensive root system capable of accessing underground water and absorbing surface water after rainfall, as well as small, waxy leaves that minimize water loss and aid in conserving water during droughts or extreme temperatures.

Though creosote bushes produce many fuzzy seeds with each bloom, few successfully sprout. Germination is rare, and recovery from disturbance is slow. Even a creosote plant just one foot tall may already be ten years old.

While the Art Smith is renowned for its stunning flora, many hikers are drawn to it by the opportunity to see Peninsula bighorn sheep. The photos below capture our encounters with the bighorn sheep that roam the Northern Santa Rosa Mountains. Although it can be a matter of ‘being in the right place at the right time’, your odds of spotting bighorn sheep are better if you’re on the trail early in the morning when they usually forage.  Fortunately, bighorn sheep don’t often hide in the shrubs. We've seen them many times right on the trail. Each encounter has been unique, with the only common factor being that we've always seen them before reaching the first fan palm oasis.

I want to be clear, most of these photos were taken with a telephoto lens in order to avoid or interfering with their movement along the trail. However, on a few encounters, we literally ran into the sheep on the trail. In those instances, we stopped and gave them space until they moved on.

These magnificent Peninsular bighorn sheep are a distinct population segment of the desert bighorn sheep subspecies. As shown in this map generated by the California Department of Fish and Wildlife, peninsular bighorn sheep roam the San Jacinto and Santa Rosa Mountains and areas as far south as the United States-Mexico border (pink area).

In the early 1900s, their population was estimated at 28,000 individuals. However, human disturbance, loss of habitat, fragmentation by rapid urban and commercial develop all contributed to the dramatic decline in their numbers. The estimated herd size dropped from roughly 1000 animals in 1971 to approximately 300 in 1991. As of 2025, California supports approximately 750 Peninsular bighorn sheep.

Despite an overall increase in the population since 1996, they remain extremely vulnerable. According to the State's 2025 Conservation report, the decline in the population between 2016 and 2022 likely resulted from several years of severe drought, coupled with chronic low lamb recruitment due to disease, and continual mortalities due to habitat loss, predation, vehicle collisions, and individuals drowning in canals.

Although protected since 1971 by California legislation, it wasn't until 1998 that the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service listed this population segment as an endangered species. Following this designation, the Endangered Species Act ensured that the Peninsular bighorn sheep will be protected and all efforts made to assist in their recovery.

Peninsular bighorn sheep males (rams; left) and females (ewes; right) can be distinguished by their horn size, shape, and overall body size. Rams possess larger, more curved horns compared to ewes, whose horns are smaller and straighter. Rams have a thick, blocky build and typically weigh about 160 pounds, whereas ewes have narrower frames and average around 105 pounds. Both sexes have coats that vary from light sandy to brown or slate, with white markings on the rump, stomach, muzzle, and backs of the leg.

While bighorn sheep are social animals, rams and ewes generally meet only for mating purposes. Rams gather in bachelor groups, whereas ewes, as depicted in the photo, live in herds with their young lambs. These sheep breed seasonally, with females typically birthing one lamb each year. The mating period, called the rut, occurs from July to December.

In their first year, lambs learn from the ewes about their home range, escape routes, and reliable sources of water and food. Bighorn lambs remain with their mothers for varying periods, generally staying in the same group for life if they are female, and leaving to join bachelor groups at around 2-4 years old if they are male.

These lambs, photographed in February 2020, were likely only 1-2 months old. The absence of visible horn buds and their fuzzy, fluffy appearance indicates a recently born. After sharing these observations on iNaturalist, curators from both the 'California Rare, Threatened and Endangered Species Group' and the 'US Federally Threatened and Endangered Species Organization' added my observations to their site. Not bad for a novice.

Following lambing, ewes with lambs gather in nursery groups.

Notice the horns are visible on this older lamb. Lamb survival rates can fluctuate significantly from year to year, with reports indicating survival to 6 months of age ranging from 0 to 80%; however, a lamb fatality rate of 30% is frequently cited. Factors such as rainfall and disease likely affect lamb survival. In the Northern Santa Rosa Mountains herd, the primary causes of death are disease, predation, injury, and being struck by vehicles while crossing highway 74.

During our guided hikes, we often discuss how Peninsular bighorn sheep use their horns to break open barrel cacti to reach the watery pulp that serves as a source of water and nutrients. Their mouths, including tongues and lips, are specially adapted with thickened skin, to provide protection when they bite into a barrel cactus. We had never observed this behavior until recently when on one of our Art Smith hikes we watched a bighorn sheep eating a California barrel cactus.

Long after the bighorns had left the area, I returned to take a photo of their meal.

Just a reminder: If you encounter bighorn sheep on a trail, the most important thing is to keep a safe distance and allow them to move freely. Do not approach, feed, or touch them since this unwanted stress is harmful to these beautiful animals. Observe from a distance!

The adventure doesn't have to end after spotting the bighorn sheep, there are other highlights along the trail.

The chuparosa, or hummingbird bush, is a vibrant desert shrub native to the low desert areas of California, Arizona, and Mexico. Renowned for its vivid, tubular red flowers, it draws hummingbirds to its blooms. Certain hummingbirds migrating from Mexico to Alaska trace the blooming path of the Chuparosa through the Southwestern deserts. These shrubs can reach heights of up to five feet and feature succulent-like stems with few or no leaves during dry periods or when flowering.

This plant flourishes in dry areas and typically blossoms in the spring.  In addition to their beauty, these 1-2 inch flowers offer a refreshing snack with a cucumber-like taste. Just a reminder: if you decide to taste these treats, select only from a healthy bush with plenty of flowers—leave them for the hummingbirds. Additionally, only pick flowers from waist-high levels to avoid unintentionally consuming coyote or other animal urine that might have been sprayed on the bush

Brittle bush lined the trail. Even with drought conditions, this plant appears relatively healthy with a large number of greenish-white leaves on each stem.

At first glance, you might think this brittle bush is showing signs of drought stress. However, upon closer inspection, you'll notice that bighorn sheep have been munching on the leaves. While brittle bush isn't a main food source for them, they will eat it when it's easily accessible.

In the middle of a drought conditions, we discovered the smallest of flowers on the sticky fagonbush.

It's impossible to hike in the Sonoran Desert without taking a photo of the iconic California barrel cactus. FYI, for reference Dave is 6 feet tall.

Aside from encountering bighorn sheep, the main attraction on the Art Smith trail is the chance to explore several desert fan palm oases. There are at least three oases, with more to discover if you venture off-trail into the side canyons. From a distance the first fan palm oasis looks like it is struggling.

As we got a closer view, there were indeed a number of dead fan palms yet there are also several small, younger trees that seem healthy. Several factors can lead to the decline of an oasis. Among the diverse plant life in the desert, desert fan palm stand out as 'nonadapters'. They require a constant and uninterrupted sources of water to survive. Their roots extend only 8-12 feet deep, so if a water source is unavailable or the level of an existing source drops, the palms will die.

Faults or cracks in the bedrock create channels that allow groundwater to seep upwards through these pathways, functioning like an underground plumbing system. These channels provide the palms with their uninterrupted water supply. However, unpredictable movement along the faults can seal off those cracks isolating the palms from their water supply. Alternatively, movement along the fault might cause the land to rise, elevating the oasis above the water supply. In both scenarios, the outcome is the same: a devastating loss of palms.

However, the presence of a few younger palms in close proximity to the dead palms might indicate pests or disease were the culprit for the earlier die off.

The desert fan palm, Washingtonia filifera, is the only palm native to the western United States and is the country's largest native palm. Towering up to 75 feet they have a life expectancy of 80-90 years. Looking much like a skirt, the fan palm's dead leaves remain attached to its trunk until removed by fire, wind, or flood.

Healthy plants, including this juvenile brittle bush, were living it in the oasis despite very little rainfall over the previous 13 months.

You can always find a great spot along the trail for a break or lunch.

The second oasis was situated close to the first oasis. Even from a distance it looked in much better shape.

We decided against going off-trail to explore this oasis and opted to continue our hike on the Art Smith. I'm confident we'll have another chance to explore it in the future.

Even though the hike was over 4 miles, it was worth the extra distance to catch a glimpse of the third oasis today.

There's always time to take i the views on a remarkable day like today.

Leisurely walk back to the trailhead.

Pausing for a trail selfie in 2025

On the final switchbacks at the start of the trail and then we're done for the day. The Art Smith is a great trail experience whether you are looking for a challenging hike or a shorter excursion, diverse flora, or bighorn sheep sightings; it's all here.