Where Sardines Swim: Exploring Monterey and Carmel-by-the-Sea

Monterey and Carmel-by-the-Sea (Carmel) are nestled along California's rugged coast. They hide a mixture of nooks, coves, hills, woods, and spectacular views of Monterey Bay that were waiting to be explored during our coastal California road trip. We started in Morro Bay drove through Big Sur and began exploring these two cities.

Throughout the centuries, the City of Monterey has evolved from a destination sought by explorers in search of pearls and gold in the 1600s, to a bustling international port in the 1800s, a global hub for sardines in the 1900s, and now one of California’s top tourist destination. Despite these diverse transformations, one common thread exists - Monterey's past and future is intricately linked to the stunning Monterey Bay.

If the bay is central to the story of these two towns, then no conversation is complete without discussing the significance of Monterey Canyon.

Monterey Bay a Geologic Wonder

Located right offshore is the largest submarine canyon on the West Coast of North America and the 3rd largest submarine canyon in the world – the Monterey Canyon. Here are a few mind blowing facts.

• The head of the canyon starts less than 1 miles from shore at Moss Landing.

• There are two side canyons but the main channel is approximately 292 miles long.

• It is 7.5 miles across at its widest point and the canyon walls reach up 5,580 feet high.

• It is more than 2 miles deep at its deepest point.

In simple terms, this submarine canyon is similar to the Grand Canyon in Arizona. The map, created by the Monterey Bay Aquarium Research Institute with the use of sonar technology, demonstrates the complex characteristics and substantial depth of the canyon situated near the coastline.

There are several theories regarding the origin of the Monterey Canyon. One prevailing theory involves the build up of sediment over millions of years. As the sediment is destabilized, it becomes a fast-moving (greater than 16 miles per hour) slurry of seawater —similar to an underwater avalanche—called a turbidity current. This process, spanning at least 6.8 million years, has resulted in the carving of the canyon through granite bedrock by flowing sand grains. Nevertheless, the specific river responsible for the substantial sediment supply and the impact of the San Andreas Fault network on the canyon's formation remains unanswered.

Close to the shore, the canyon forms deep-sea environments that harbor a variety of animals not typically seen in shallower waters. Monterey Bay is renowned as one of the most thriving marine ecosystems globally, supporting a wide array of sea creatures, including the massive blue whale and the tiniest marine life forms. Unfortunately, we couldn't find the time for a marine wildlife excursion.

Explore Monterey Bay Aquarium

Even though we didn't get out on the sea to view marine wildlife, we did visit the world-renown Monterey Bay Aquarium.

In the late 1970s, a group of marine scientists affiliated with Stanford University and Silicon Valley crafted a vision for what was to become the world-class Monterey Bay Aquarium. They imagined a small Aquarium devoted to the diversity and beauty of life in the waters just offshore. After six years of planning and funded by a $55 million personal gift from David and Lucile Packard, their vision became reality on October 20, 1984. The Aquarium opened its doors in a state-of-the-art building that was previously home to the former Hovden Cannery, once part of the thriving sardine industry.

Monterey Bay Aquarium is the story of 'firsts'. They were the first major public aquarium in the world with permanent exhibits devoted to local marine life from the waters of Monterey Bay and California’s Central Coast. They were the first to develop a living kelp forest; the first to create large-scale jellyfish exhibits; the first to successfully exhibit and release a great white shark; the first to reintroduce rescued southern sea otter pups to the wild; and the only Aquarium outside Japan to exhibit ocean sunfish, yellowfin and bluefin tuna. Their mission is not one of commerce, but a commitment: to inspire conservation of the ocean through continued innovation, education and global influence. Despite the high ticket price it is worth the price of admission.

Tropical Fish Exhibit

The vibrant tropical fish exhibit was a showcase of color. This stunning orange Garibaldi inhabits the area from Monterey Bay to the Baja California peninsula and the Channel Islands. In contrast to other tropical fish that favor reefs, the Garibaldi resides in shallow rocky reefs close to the kelp forests, where they swim. They can reach a length of up to 14 inches.

With a sharp, scalpel-like spine located at the base of its tail, the yellow tang is equipped to defend itself against predators and competitors. This species can grow up to 8 inches in length.

The orange and blue clownfish prefer to remain near the safety provided by the anemone. The anemone's stings deter fish predators, ensuring the clownfish's constant association with its host. This relationship benefits the anemone too, as the clownfish, known for its aggressiveness and territorial behavior, protects the anemone by warding off butterflyfish and other species that feed on anemones. Clownfish typically reach a length of around 4 inches.

In this photo I was able to capture a Japan surgeonfish (top center) and a Palette surgeonfish (bottom right). The Japan surgeonfish is commonly found in the lagoons and reefs of the Western Pacific Ocean, whereas the Palette surgeonfish can be spotted in tropical and equatorial waters of the Indo-Pacific region. These fish typically reside in coastal coral reefs and lagoons due to their diet of plankton.

These vibrant orange anemones were just as colorful as the tropical fish. Despite their plant-like appearance, anemones are actually sea creatures. They typically anchor themselves to a rocky surface and stay in the same spot for their entire lifespan. However, if the environment conditions require it, they can move by sliding their adhesive foot or pedal and even detach themselves and drift with the current to a new location. Some species can even swim using their tentacles. Similar to jellyfish, anemones have stinging tentacles that they use to capture and consume their prey. Anemones mainly feed on small fish, clams, shrimp, and prawns.

Kelp Forest Exhibit

When it debuted in 1984, the Kelp Forest exhibit at the aquarium was groundbreaking, showcasing a remarkable blend of ingenuity, marine biology, and architectural engineering. It represented one of the initial efforts to replicate a thriving kelp forest in captivity, overcoming numerous obstacles to ultimately become a defining feature of the aquarium.

First challenge: Constructing a sufficiently large enclosure. The team created a massive 28-foot-tall tank with a capacity of 342,700 gallons, establishing it as one of the tallest aquarium displays globally at that time. This was essential for enabling the kelp to grow vertically towards the light, mirroring its natural habitat. Simultaneously, they had to ensure that the tank's design provided optimal viewing opportunities for visitors.

Second challenge: Ensuring a sustainable kelp forest by maintaining high water quality. One crucial innovation involved creating a seawater intake system capable of pumping up to 2,000 gallons of seawater per minute directly from Monterey Bay into the exhibit. This guarantees that the water in the kelp forest remains fresh, nutrient-rich, and teeming with the necessary microorganisms to support both the kelp and the marine species in the tank.

Third challenge: Replicate natural ocean conditions. A unique surge machine was developed by engineers to mimic the natural movement of ocean waves. This system continuously pushes water back and forth within the tank, simulating the currents that help support the kelp’s growth and the movement that sustains the marine life living within the exhibit.

Fourth challenge: Replicate the sunny California environment. The exhibit includes skylights and high-intensity artificial lighting strategically positioned to imitate the natural light required by kelp for photosynthesis. These lighting elements are specifically crafted to emulate sunlight reaching the ocean's surface, enabling the kelp to undergo photosynthesis and thrive just like it would in its natural habitat.

More than four decades later, the kelp forest continues to thrive. The giant kelp that grows are primarily found in cooler waters along the Pacific coasts of North and South America, particularly in regions like California. It is one of the fastest growing organisms on Earth, capable of growing up to 2 feet per day under optimal conditions. This rapid growth enables it to reach heights exceeding 100 feet, forming a dense underwater woodland. In contrast to terrestrial plants, giant kelp lacks true roots and instead possesses a 'holdfast' that secures it to the seabed.

Kelp forests are among the most productive and dynamic ecosystems in the planet, supporting an incredible amount of biodiversity. They are often compared to tropical rainforests in terms of the diversity of life they support. Like Joshua trees, that I often mention in our hiking blogs, giant kelp is considered a 'keystone species' because its presence supports an entire ecosystem and the loss of kelp forest could result in the collapse of this ecosystem.

The leopard shark inhabits the shallow waters of bays and estuaries and sometimes explores the kelp forest while typically remaining close to the seabed. It is one of the most common shark found along the California coast, characterized by its slender body and oval markings, measuring between 4 to 7 feet long. These sharks can be found from Oregon to Central Mexico.

Recognized as the king of the kelp forest, the giant sea bass holds the title as California's biggest bony fish found near the shore. The largest confirmed giant sea bass on record was 7.5 feet long and weighed over 550 pounds. By comparison, the largest giant sea bass in the aquarium measures 5 feet in length, weighs approximately 220 pounds, and is believed to be around 30 years old. Nevertheless, these photos fail to capture the true enormity of these colossal creatures.

They have large mouths which they use to create powerful suction, pulling prey into their mouth in a single quick motion. Their diets consists of squid, crabs and other fish such as mackerels and sardines.

Deep Sea Exhibit

Right before our visit, the aquarium unveiled its newest exhibit 'Into the Deep: Exploring Our Undiscovered Ocean'. This exhibit boasts the most extensive array of deep-sea creatures in North America. Due to the challenges in recreating their natural deep-sea habitat, many of these species are rarely displayed in aquariums. The Deep Sea exhibit feature custom tanks that maintain low temperatures and low lighting to replicate the cold, dark environment of the deep sea.

The bloody-belly comb jelly is a standout in the exhibit. The jelly may look flashy, but without a spotlight, it would blend into the darkness. In this part of the ocean, red light is unable to penetrate, causing red animals to appear black and hide in plain sight. These creatures inhabit depths between 1,000 and 9,800 feet.

It was difficult taking photos in the Deep Sea exhibit due to low lighting and fast moving creatures.

Test Your Knowledge: A group of fish is called a school but what is a group of jellies called? The answer is provided in the blog.

Other Interesting Creatures

At any given time, over 81,000 animals and plants are exhibited. Notably, 80% of the showcased marine species are native to California's waters, with most originating from the Monterey Bay region. Here are some of these creatures.

The red octopus inhabits the coastal waters of the North Pacific Ocean, usually at depths of up to 300 feet. It is commonly found in rocky and sandy areas, where it can conceal itself in crevices or burrow into the sand. Similar to other octopuses, it possesses specialized cells known as chromatophores that enable it to alter its color and texture, effectively blending in with the seafloor to avoid both predators and prey. Its coloration can vary between shades of brown, red, white, or gray, depending on its surroundings and emotional state. Typically, the red octopus has a mantle body length ranging from 8 to 10 inches, with its arm span extending up to 20 inches.

This California moray eel is primarily found along the Pacific Coast of North America, from southern California to Baja California, Mexico, and the waters surrounding the Channel Islands. It is commonly found in rocky reefs, crevices, and kelp forests in shallow waters, typically at depths of up to 130 feet. These creatures of people’s nightmares can grow up to 5 feet long. While moray eels are known for their strong bite, they do not pose a significant threat to humans unless provoked or threatened.

Bigfin reef squid can be found in warm, shallow coastal waters like coral reefs, seagrass beds, and lagoons across Japan, Southeast Asia, Australia, and the western Pacific Islands. Similar to the red octopus, these squids utilize chromatophore cells to swiftly alter their color and patterns. This skill aids them in blending with their surroundings, communicating with fellow squids, and attracting mates. In the image, it seems to be mimicking the color of the nearby coral. With a length of 1.5 to 2 feet, they are relatively small compared to other squid species. Just like many other squid species, the bigfin reef squid has a relatively short lifespan, typically living for about one year.

These sea nettles are a type of jellyfish known for their long, flowing tentacles and stinging cells. They have a golden-brown or reddish-brown colored bell-shaped body that can range in size from 6 to 12 inches. One of the most distinctive features of sea nettles is their long, trailing tentacles, which can extend up to 15 feet. These tentacles are lined with stinging cells called cnidocytes which contain tiny harpoon-like structures called nematocysts. When triggered, the nematocysts release toxins to stun or kill prey and defend against predators. The lighting in the exhibit really brought our their stunning coloration.

Here is a short video featuring moon jellyfish. Moon jellies, also referred to as moon jellyfish or common jellyfish, are among the most well-known and prevalent types of jellyfish. They easily recognizable by their nearly transparent, saucer-shaped bell that typically measures 10 to 16 inches in diameter. Their slow pulsating movements are almost therapeutic to watch.

The Monterey Bay Aquarium story is best concluded by a photo of sardines, which have played a significant role in the history of this city. Pacific sardines, a type of small schooling fish, travel across the open oceans from Japan to California to Chile, feeding on plankton and small crustaceans. With the ability to reach lengths of up to 12 inches and a lifespan of under 5 years, they are often preyed upon by various other fish. However, sardines have developed a clever survival strategy: They swim in huge groups to reduce the chances of lone fish being targeted and eaten. These silvery gems spawned an entire industry in Monterey.

Cannery Row and the Legacy of Sardine Harvests

Tourists, not sardines, are the big catch now but it hasn't always been this way. The Cannery Row area once bustled with the vibrant energy and smells of the sardine industry. Fishing has always been fruitful in these waters but in the early 1900s a silvery tide of sardines made Cannery Row famous.

During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, canned sardines gained popularity for various reasons. They were one of the first foods to be canned enabling them to be easily stored, transported, and consumed. The canning process allowed the fish to be preserved for extended periods, making them ideal for people who lacked refrigeration or needed portable food, such as soldiers and sailors. In addition, sardines are rich in protein, omega-3 fatty acids, vitamins, and minerals like calcium and iron, making them a nutritious and relatively affordable food source. The health benefits associated with sardines significantly contributed to their widespread consumption. Sorry, but I’ll pass on these silvery wonders.

The canning industry got its start in 1902, with the founding of the Monterey Fishing & Canning Company and the Booth Cannery. The city’s location along the productive waters of Monterey Bay made it ideal for commercial fishing. Initially, sardines were caught on a small scale, primarily for local consumption and bait.

The closure of Europe's fishing grounds during World War I led to a surge in the young sardine industry in Monterey. Between 1915 and 1918, annual production of canned sardines in Monterey increased significantly from 75,000 cases to 1.4 million cases. Cannery Row was in full swing.

In the 1920s and 1930s: Monterey’s sardine industry boomed, transforming the city into a fishing powerhouse. Cannery Row, a stretch of sardine canneries along the waterfront, became a bustling industrial hub. At its peak, the industry employed thousands of workers and produced millions of cases of canned sardines.

Before World War II, only women, specifically 'white American women', were permitted to work on cannery lines. The canneries would shut down operations if there weren't sufficient women available - even if men were present. These women were compensated based on production, earning 23 cents for every 16 cans of sardines they packed.

In the 1940s, the industry started to decline as a result of excessive fishing. Sardine populations in Monterey Bay were drastically depleted, and annual catches dropped sharply. World War II provided a temporary boom but it was short lived.

So by the early 1950s, the sardine population in Monterey Bay had nearly vanished. Cannery after cannery closed, and by the mid-1950s, the industry had essentially collapsed. It’s estimated that between 1936 and 1946 over 200 million tons of sardines were harvested.

Cannery Row became a derelict area, and the local economy shifted away from fishing and canning. However, development began to take off in the late 1970s, marked by the construction of hotels and the transformation of some old buildings into clusters of gift shops and galleries. Today, Cannery Road is the major tourist attraction in the city. What a difference a century makes.

Carmel - The Slow Road to an Artist's Colony

Even though Monterey and Carmel are neighboring communities with breathtaking landscapes and coastlines, they offer distinct experiences for visitors. While both cities were established as Spanish settlements in the late 1700s, they quickly started to follow separate paths. After California was handed over to the United States by Mexico in 1848 at the conclusion of the Mexican–American War, Monterey had already become a significant center for shipping and fishing, while Carmel had been largely abandoned by the Spanish.

However, things began to change with the formation of the Carmel Development Company in 1902. A 'planned residential community' started to emerge, but it was the San Francisco earthquake in 1906 that dramatically changed the city's trajectory. Many artists and writers who had been based in San Francisco settled in Carmel and the village has been a magnet for the arts ever since. Unfortunately, we aren't into browsing shops and art galleries but we did stop at this bakery to grab some chocolate treats before heading to Carmel Beach for a few hours.

Singing Sand and Monterey Cypress Trees

Carmel Beach consistently makes it to the list of top beaches in the Monterey region for a good reason.

There is the beautiful soft white sand beach with rocky outcropping which drop dramatically into the ocean. As an added bonus, the sand squeaks or whistles as you walk on it generating a sound similar to wiping a glass window. The whistling quartz sand at Carmel Beach resembles tiny glass beads. Due to their uniform size and rounded shape, the grains of sand glide over each other in unison when they are compressed by your feet. The frictional energy due to this shearing makes the sand grains vibrate. These vibrating sand grains transfer their energy to the air pockets between them, thus making the air vibrate. When these vibrations finally reach our ear, we hear them as a squeak. Most ordinary beach sand is a mixture of rock grains and calciferous shells that lack the uniformity of grain size and shape to produce sound. But this beach would be awesome even without the sound.

Along a section of the beach entrance, there is a row of trees, including this Monterey Cypress. This tree used to be one of the rarest in the world, growing naturally only in two small groves near the Pacific Ocean on the Monterey Peninsula and at Point Lobos. However, it is now cultivated in suitable locations worldwide.

Finally who doesn't appreciate sitting on the beach and watching the California surfing scene.

A wet suit if a must as the water hovers in the cool mid 50 degree range.

Exploring Monterey and Carmel was a great follow-up to Morro Bay and Big Sur but our coastal California road trip wasn't over. We had one final stop at the iconic Malibu Beach